Thanks to Illusion, my little sister Julija and I received an invitation to work at Magic Lab in Chongqing. Ever since I stopped competing, I’d wanted to return to this incredible city. Between 2012 and 2018, Chongqing was a regular stop on the World Cup circuit. I’ve never been much of a big-city person, but this place always felt different. It somehow manages to be overwhelming and welcoming at the same time.
After a long journey—and nearly missing a couple of connecting flights—we finally made it. Maxine and Eric Wu greeted us at the airport and took us straight to our hotel. Since Magic Lab was only a short walk away, we headed over to check it out. The gym immediately felt like the kind of place every climber loves: thoughtfully built, packed with quality holds, and just the right size to create a real community. The neighbors even look after the local cats, and naturally the friendliest one had claimed the gym as its home.
That evening, Eric introduced us to a proper Chinese dinner. A few light beers quickly turned into hours of stories about climbing, travel, life, and everything in between. It was one of those evenings where you realize you’re no longer surrounded by strangers.
Our first full day was all about exploring. Maxine became our guide and showed us parts of Chongqing I had never seen before. The city has changed enormously over the years, blending futuristic architecture with its unique character, yet it somehow still feels familiar. The weather was surprisingly perfect—a welcome change from the rain that usually greeted us during World Cup trips. We wrapped up the day with a massage before finishing the night in the city center, sipping cocktails at the very spot that had left such a strong impression on me during my first visit all those years ago.
The following day, it was time to get to work. We tweaked a few existing boulders before putting them to the test in front of a packed gym. After the demo session, Eric hosted a Q&A where we shared stories from our climbing careers, training, competitions, and life on the road. We handed out gifts from our sponsors, Illusion and Karpos, signed posters, took photos, and spent time chatting with everyone who came by. We celebrated the day with a traditional Chongqing hot pot before calling it a night.
The coaching day turned out to be my favorite. We reset a few more climbs and spent the entire day working with a small group of motivated climbers. The format was perfect—small enough that we could give everyone individual attention. Instead of rushing through drills, we had time to dive into movement, body positioning, tactics, and mindset. By the end of the day, it felt less like a clinic and more like climbing with friends. That evening naturally ended the only way climbers know how: games at the hotel, followed by a night out that somehow lasted until six in the morning.
Fortunately, we still had until midnight the next day to complete our main mission: setting eleven boulders each. We filled every remaining section of the wall with new problems, each designed with a different idea and style in mind. Once everything was finished, we filmed ourselves climbing the boulders and explained the movement, inspiration, and intended solutions before saying goodbye to the local climbers with a few final autographs and sponsor gifts.
With the work complete, we finally had time to escape the city. Eric and Maxine took us to a nearby crag where, despite the heavy humidity, we managed to enjoy some real rock. We climbed several routes up to 7c, fighting slippery holds and damp conditions but having an amazing time regardless. The next two days were filled with incredible food, relaxing at a spa, shopping, and simply enjoying the company of people who had become genuine friends in less than a week.
When it was finally time to leave Chongqing, the goodbye was far more difficult than expected. We arrived as guests, but left feeling like part of the Magic Lab family. Luckily, goodbyes in climbing are rarely forever—we already know our paths will cross again.
Jernej Kruder